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Shanghai Fashion Week Showcases Comfort and Romance in Styles

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During the recent Shanghai Fashion Week, buyers and industry experts highlighted a trend towards comfort and romance in fashion, praising collections from brands such as Ao Yes, Shushu/Tong, and Mark Gong. This season, New Chinese Style continues to resonate with a nostalgic appeal while younger brands introduce innovative interpretations of traditional styles.

Emphasis on Modern Interpretations and Comfort

Buyers expressed enthusiasm for how these collections reflect a modern take on traditional Chinese patterns and embroideries. Eléonore Daquet, brand manager at Labubu’s Creator, noted, “It’s so interesting how they interpret traditional Chinese patterns and embroideries in such a modern and playful way.” Ramu Kim, a buyer at Nubian Tokyo, remarked on the elegance and confidence seen in the clean lines and structured silhouettes presented this season.

In the face of uncertain economic conditions, consumers in China are gravitating towards comfort and texture. Sonja Long, founder and fashion director of Alter Showroom, observed that soothing knits in muted colors and relaxed linen suits have become increasingly popular. “Overly traditional, classic, or exaggerated designs are no longer as popular as they used to be,” she noted. “Now, relaxed, playful, and lifestyle styles are selling better.”

Ding Meimei, founder of DFO Showroom, echoed this sentiment, stating, “This season’s showrooms really highlight the flexibility and creativity of China’s fashion industry. Even in a challenging economic environment, brands are approaching things with a proactive, open mindset.”

A Platform for Emerging Talent

This season also saw the launch of the New Wave Fashion Awards by the Shanghai Fashion Design Association (SFDA), aimed at discovering and supporting the next generation of Chinese creative directors. Lv, an official at SFDA, commented, “The growth and development of designers and brands is a continuous process. By providing consistent guidance, resources, and opportunities for exchange, the association ensures that talent can truly take root, grow, and ultimately flourish.”

While some observers found this fashion week to be somewhat lackluster, others highlighted the resilience of brands that consistently delivered strong presentations. Eric Young, founder of LMDS, pointed out that retail spending appears to be on the rise, saying, “I’m looking forward to a positive market environment — for real this time.” He urged consumers to appreciate well-designed fashion, emphasizing its role in driving market improvement.

Among the standout collections was Ao Yes, which impressed with its reinterpretation of traditional Chinese aesthetics through modern tailoring. Their pieces featured clean lines and structured silhouettes that conveyed elegance and cultural grounding.

Shushu/Tong made a significant impact with a runway presentation that told a compelling story through its cinematic direction. The collection skillfully blended innocence with maturity, showcasing the brand’s signature romantic yet empowered femininity. Delicate lace details and floral motifs captured both softness and strength, illustrating the evolving concept of femininity in contemporary design.

This season also marked the tenth anniversary for designer Xu Zhi, who presented a narrative filled with emotional depth and intriguing styling. Meanwhile, Mark Gong shifted from his previous New York City metropolitan themes to embrace a more vibrant, road trip-inspired collection, echoing the energy of a cinematic narrative similar to “Thelma & Louise.”

Fresh Talent and Innovative Designs

New brands also emerged, such as Ratio et Motus, which recently resumed operations after a pandemic-induced hiatus. Design director Shenghao Li showcased a collection at LMDS that included a stylish foldable baguette bag, which quickly garnered attention as a potential must-have item.

Another new brand, Ayang, was discovered at the Tube showroom, where its use of Italian fabrics created a relaxed atmosphere, even if the collection felt incomplete. Samuel Gui Yang celebrated his brand’s tenth year with graceful dresses that have become signature pieces, while Her Senses lingerie continues to impress with its craftsmanship and understanding of women’s bodies.

Despite the challenges faced by some designers, many brands demonstrated the ability to adapt and innovate. The Shanghai Fashion Week showcased an inspiring array of creativity, with floral themes recurring throughout various collections, reflecting a powerful romantic direction in fashion.

As Shanghai Fashion Week concluded, it became clear that while some elements may have felt flat, the dedication and resilience of designers and brands point towards a promising future for the fashion industry in China.

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